Set on the Baltic Sea, Riga is the capital city of Latvia and is the perfect place to visit for a relaxed weekend break with delicious food, some of the best coffee, and a rich and complex history to learn about. If you’re a museum girlie, then this is the place for you!
This summer, Riga turned 825, and I got to visit during the peak of the birthday celebrations. From pop up restaurants showcasing some of the best restaurants in the city to special sporting and car events and pop up markets, and finishing with an incredible concert and fireworks on the River Daugava. It was the perfect time to visit and get a real taste of the city, even though I was only there for 48 hours. It’s safe to say I’ve come back from Riga already desperate to go back and explore more – plus rumour has it they have some of the best Christmas markets in Europe!
So if you’re looking for an affordable city break in Europe, here is your ultimate guide to visiting Riga…
How to get to Riga, Latvia
I was surprised at just how easy it is to fly to Riga from the UK. You can get direct flights to Riga from London Gatwick, London Stansted, Manchester Airport, Leeds Bradford Airport, East Midlands Airport and Edinburgh.
We flew from Leeds Bradford, and it was an easy 2hr30 flight with RyanAir. I’d also not realised just how easy it is to get from the centre of Leeds to the airport – just hop onto the A1 Flyer and it takes 40mins and is £2.50 for a single.
Where to stay in Riga
Riga isn’t a huge city, and I found everywhere we wanted to go was a 20 minute walk maximum. Having said that, we stayed in the Old Town and it really is the best base for exploring the city.
The hotel we stayed in was Wellton Centrum Hotel & SPA and location wise was perfect. You were at the Freedom Monument within 5 minutes, 5 minutes to the House of the Blackheads, and a 10 minute walk to the main part of the River Daugava.
Whilst the room was very spacious and comfortable, I felt very safe in there and the location was great in parts, I’m reluctant to fully recommend the hotel as there’s a 24 hour bar opposite (and our room looked onto which is why I noticed it) which meant it was very loud during the night, especially on a Friday and Saturday. It was also at the end of a street with a lot of bars, so it was a little rowdy as you walked from the hotel and into the old town on an evening. Having said that, it was still a great location for exploring, the staff were very welcoming and the room was clean and comfortable.
Things to do in Riga
If you have an interest in art, history and culture (oh and good food and coffee!), then Riga is going to be the perfect place for you to come and explore. Here are some things to not miss when you visit the city.
a boat tour on the canal
If there’s an excuse to go on a boat tour, I will take it, and you can take a wooden boat cruise on the Riga City Canal and the Daugava River. These boats are gorgeous, and it’s a lovely way to see the city from a different angle.
Whilst you can buy your tickets online, I’d recommend just turning up about 15-20mins beforehand and paying when you get there.
It’s around 50 minutes, and you can catch the boat from the Red Pier, Radio Street 1, which is around 200 m from the Latvian National Opera.
Visit the Latvian National Museum of Art
The Latvian National Museum of Art has to be one of the most interesting art galleries I’ve been to. Not only is the building absolutely stunning, each gallery room takes you through a different time period. It was really interesting to see the impact of occupation on the artwork, and how art was used at times to protest what was happening.
Learn more about the city at the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia
This is an incredibly unique and important museum, which focuses on Latvia’s history from 1940 until 1991, when occupations by both the Soviet Union and Nazi Germany were experienced. You’ll come away with more of an understanding of one of the most difficult periods in Latvia’s history, which is told through personal accounts of the period, original documents and photos and humanises the history and shows what real life was like.
Go on a coffee shop tour of the city
Something you may not know about Riga is how good the coffee is here. You won’t find a Starbucks on every corner, and that’s because they value local roasters and high quality coffee. You can easily spend your whole weekend hopping from coffee shop to coffee shop (and make sure to have at least one Vecrīga pastry whilst you’re there!).
Three that you absolutely must visit are Rocket Bean (you can visit their roastery as well!), Parunasim – aka Riga’s most romantic cafe in the old town, and Kalve. You are guaranteed to have a good coffee when you visit any of these!
Visit the Freedom Monument
The Freedom Monument is the central point of the city, which is a symbol of freedom and independence. It really captures the identity of Latvia, and symbolises the nation’s work ethic, spiritual strength, and striving for independency. At the top is the ‘mother’ holding three stars, representing the unity of Latvia’s historical regions.
There is a guard of honour between 10am and 4pm, with a changing of the guard every hour, as it’s also a memorial for all of the fallen soldiers. It feels very poignant as you stand there.
Don’t miss the Baltic Way Monument
t’s very easy to miss the Baltic Way Monument – it’s a simple square with footprints, across the road from the Freedom Monument but it holds a huge story.
It is there to mark a huge day in the Baltics history; 23rd August 1989, when two million people stood hand in hand to form an unbroken human chain across Latvia, Estonia and Lithuania, to peacefully protest Soviet occupation and demand independence. The chain spanned 600km, and independence finally came in 1991.
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Book a walking tour of Riga’s Old Town and Central Market
A walking tour is the perfect way to see a city and get your bearings, and it’s even better when it includes a food tour of the market. Riga’s Central Market is the biggest market in Europe, and you’ll find it spread across five huge aircraft hangers. Here you will find not only incredibly fresh produce, but also get to try a real taste of local delicacies from smoked fish and meats to cheeses, breads, and fresh fruits.
I really recommend going with a guide like we did, because you get to learn so much more about not only the produce, but country itself, and it’s a great opportunity to get to taste lots of delicious food.
Explore the Art Nouveau area of Riga
Riga is filled with beautiful Art Nouveau buildings and you can find examples of it all over the city however you can head over the the ‘Quiet Centre’ of the city (around a 15 minute walk from the Freedom Monument) you will find a street lined with Art Nouveau buildings and a museum dedicated to the movement as well. You’ll find ornate stained glassed windows, incredible detailing on the buildings, vibrant colours and, if you go inside, stunning pieces of furniture of the period as well.
Take a tour of the House of the Blackheads
The House of the Blackheads has to be one of the most beautiful parts of Riga. You’ll find tin the heart of the Old Town, opposite the town hall, and it is breathtaking to look at. Inside is just as stunning, and you can find exhibitions celebrating Latvia’s rich cultural and historical heritage.
The building was actually heavily bombed in WW2, and demolished under Soviet occupation however it was lovingly restored and rebuilt in the 90’s, and is now seen as a symbol of the nation’s cultural resilience and pride.
Get the best view of the city at St Peter’s Church
There’s nothing quite as magical as finding an incredible viewpoint, where you can really take in the whole city. You can do just that at St Peter’s Church, where you can go up the tower and get a birds eye view over the city. We weren’t 100% sure whether to actually go up, with it costing €9pp, however we were so glad we did because the view was so worth it.
Have a beach day at Jūrmala beach
If you’re spending a bit more time in Riga and wanting to explore further afield (or just in need of a beach day!) you can catch the train to Jūrmala beach. It takes between 20 to 50 minutes and costs between €1.20 and €1.50.
Where to eat in Riga
Riga is filled with a whole range of restaurants, each with their own vibe and cosy feel. I was there during the birthday celebrations, and spent a whole day just eating at the Birthday Restaurant, with showcased multiple restaurants across the city. With that in mind, I’ve put in the restaurants I visited at the birthday restaurant, even though I didn’t eat at the actual establishment (but if the food is that good when it’s a pop up, I can only imagine how good the actual restaurant must be!).
Mama Bistro
The highlight of my whole trip was our meal at Mama Bistro. We came here for lunch and had a decedent 3 course meal and every bite was filled with flavour. The service was impeccable and inside was a really relaxed feeling. I would come here again in a heartbeat (and when I saw they were at the Birthday Restaurant pop up, I squealed with excitement as I could get my favourite dessert again!)
My meal was;
The dessert was almost like a Latvian Tiramisu – admittedly there was no coffee or liquor in it, and it had a berry layer instead, but it was so so good. However this wasn’t the dream dessert that I had seconds of the next day, no that was the Vecrīga that my mum had, and I had one bite of and knew I had to have again.
Vecrīga pastry’s are Latvians national sweet treat, and is a light choux pastry filled with delicate sweet curd cream. It’s delicious and light and oh so moreish and make sure you get at least one whilst you’re visiting!
Cafe Mio
Often described as Riga’s most beautiful restaurant, Cafe Mio manages to mix Bridgerton elegance with your Grandma’s front room and it works. It’s homely yet decedent and is a memorable place to visit. When I visited, it was a beautifully warm evening, so I sat outside, with the twinkly fairy lights creating a very warm and cosy environment. For dinner, I ate;
A special shout out has to go to the cheesy pesto toast that came with the mussels – it was incredible and so unexpected. It packed a punch of flavour, and I couldn’t stop eating it even thought I was super full!
The 825 Birthday Celebration Restaurant
As we were there on one of the birthday celebration weekends, there was a special pop up restaurant that featured over 10 of the best restaurants in Riga. It was a brilliant way to get to see more of the food scene of the city, and get to try the flavours of different restaurants (which I will definitely be checking out when I visit again!)
From Osta, I had an incredible smoked salmon donut which was so light and fluffy, followed by fresh and tasty mussels in a tomato sauce and potatoes in a mushroom cream. Honestly it was delightful, not too heavy, and the food felt so fresh.
The second restaurant we checked out was Ferma, where I got the most incredible burger. I was expecting a ‘normal’ burger patty, but instead it was succulent pieces of peppery steak, with a salad mixed in and it was incredible. Genuinely one of the best burgers I’ve eaten and even writing and thinking about it is making me want to hop back on a flight right now and get it.
This pop up restaurant was right outside the opera house, and it really did feel like a celebration of Riga, its history, its culture and its food scene. You can feel how proud everyone is, not just to be Latvian but also of what they’re producing and it was a brilliant atmosphere.
How to Spend 3 days in Riga
Riga really is a perfect place for a long weekend break. Whether you want to fit a lot into your day, or just wander and take in the sights, there’s no ‘right’ way to do it. Below I’ve put together an itinerary based on some of the highlights from my trip to give you the balance of exploring and relaxing!
Our flight landed in the evening, so after checking into our hotel, we fell straight to sleep ready for our first day exploring…
Day one in Riga
For your first morning in Riga, I really recommend taking the walking tour of the city which takes in the Old Town and the Central Market. Not only does it help you get your bearings, you’ll see all the must see parts of the city, get a real understanding of the history of the country, and get a food tour around the market and taste some of the quintessentially Latvian flavours.
After your walking and food tour of the city, you’ll be in need of a little sit down, so head to Rocket Bean behind the Freedom Monument for an incredible flat white and also get Vecrīga to go with it.
Then spend your afternoon taking a canal and river cruise, and where you catch the boat is around a 5 minute walk from the coffee shop.
Ready for dinner? Head to MaMa Bistro for the most incredible meal.
Day Two in Riga
Riga has some incredible museums, which you really don’t want to miss. To learn about the history, head to the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia, and across the square you can also take a tour of the House of Blackheads.
Make sure to enjoy coffee and cake at Parunasim whilst you’re in the Old Town, and head up St Peter’s Church tower for some incredible views of the city.
For lunch, head to Zvaigzne where you can find speciality coffee and some really lovely light lunch options!
Spend your afternoon at the Latvian National Museum of Art, where you can wander the most beautiful building and see some incredible art work.
For your final dinner, it has to be Cafe Mio. The food here is delicious and it’s the perfect way to end your city break!
Before your flight home…
If you can fit in one more coffee stop before your flight, make sure it’s Kalve Coffee. This was just around the corner from where we were staying and it was the perfect farewell before we headed to the airport for a morning flight home!
I absolutely adored my weekend in Riga, and already planning a trip back there for the Christmas Markets because I fell in love with the city (and have it under good authority that the christmas markets are meant to be some of the best!).
You can find more weekend break guides here and if you’re also a foodie and wanting to know where to visit for seriously good food and coffee, you can find my food guides here.
